Last Thursday a group of fellow-travelers and I were guided through the storied history of Mount Herzl, Jerusalem. The historical spot not only epitomizes the depth of the near-annihilation of the Jewish people (with the strategically placed Yad Vashem at the foot of the mountain) but, at its apex, also the resurrection in the form of the reestablishment of the Jewish commonwealth in 1948. A recording of Ben-Gurion's declaration of statehood is played in a loop.

From memorial to independence, the emotional roller coaster continues onward; from a commemoration of death to rebirth, a remembrance of tragedy and triumph.

A group of children were there in rehearsal mode for Yom Ha'atzmaut (Independence Day), singing "HaTikva (the Hope)," that soaringly, achingly beautiful, Israeli national anthem. Our guide, who sounded British like many Israeli guides in my experience, told us stories of Jewish heroism during the Second World War. This serves as a psychological counterpoint to the overarching image of "sheep to the slaughter," which is how many Israelis initially saw the circumstances out of which the survivors escaped. One sculpture piece, near the line of trees symbolizing the Righteous among the Nations, is a testament to that heroism: a proud, muscled Jew leading the way, gun-in-hand and ready to fight. To the immediate right is a more familiar picture, carved in two dimensions as opposed to three, of a row of human cattle resigned to their fate. Israel's establishment, we are told, negated that attitude.

Becoming better aware of the fact that Israel is a living testament to the fighting spirit, the specters that are supposed to scare me no longer do. I'm not afraid of Iran, or Syria, or Hamas. Living in fear, perhaps, is a "galut" sentimentality, one which falls away in times of real crisis.

Today marks the eve of Yom Ha'zikaron (Memorial Day), a tribute to the fallen, to the men and women who gave their lives for the survival of this commonwealth known as Israel. Immediately following this day of memory is Yom Ha'atzmaut. The emotional roller coaster continues onward, from a commemoration of death to rebirth, a remembrance of tragedy and triumph.